Generally speaking, one does not need to be a "professional avian person" to distinguish between a healthy bird as compared to another bird which may be offered to you perhaps in a rather more dubious condition. Exceptions to any "Rules of Thum - or Thumb!" in this regard may arise from time to time, of course, where the input of an avian veterinarian may be required to ensure with absolute certainty the overall health and good general condition of any particular bird. Healthy birds can be expected to display a nice sharp-looking, alert appearance, with sleek-looking feathers and "plenty of flesh" covering the breast-bone. Always check their feather condition (sleek, with no abnormalities such as bare spots), feet (clean and complete), nails (all clean and nicely trimmed), beak (smooth and shiny), eyes (bright, alert and wide open), nostrils (clean and dry) and rear-underside areas (clean and without aggregated fecal matter), etc. If there seems to be some problem, there probably is one, which may or may not be significant, of course ! - so always inspect the bird closely and interrogate the seller on any matters of concern! Check the bird's breathing - there should be no sounds of wheezing or labored respiration. Healthy pet-quality birds should soon become demonstrably affectionate to the handler, playful and active - although generally only significant personal care, attention and training will get your bird to become talkative and to do tricks, etc. If the pet-bird being offered to you nips, bites, or appears unduly agressive or proves difficult to catch or handle, negotiate a lower $ price with the seller - or move on!
CAGED ACCOMMODATION:
Most healthy Conures, Parrots, and other Hookbills, etc. are very active, playful, and curiousity-driven creatures - and are also often very mischievous! - so give them generous (and safe!) cage space. A lone bird, for example, needs much more than half the cage space that you would be pleased to allocate to at least a pair of similar birds! So, provide these guys with plenty of cage space so that they can get all the exercise they need, and more. Make sure that they have such accommodations in which they can freely clamber around and keep themselves, and you, fully amused. For example, a couple of Conures would well appreciate the same amount of cage-space as you would readily provide for your family TV set - not a bad guideline for those who ask "how big does the cage need to be for my new pet bird ?"! Common-sense usually provides the best answer! Also, bearing in mind some of your bird's particular characteristics, as noted above, you will need to make sure that your bird's living environment is safe and secure from "predators", such as your pet cat or dog - or indeed your equally-mischievous young child! So take all the necessary steps to ensure that the bird cannot get access to potentially harmful materials or situations.
The larger the cage the better. Even the smallest of bird needs a lot of room to move around and explore. However, please be careful regarding the material of the cage. AVOID zinc and nickel…stainless steel is much better. Even though the cost is more, you avoid the risk of your bird getting poisoned if they ingest a fleck of the cage and we all know how birds like to chew!
Due to their nature, birds like to cuddle up against something to sleep and cozy huts available on the market would be a great addition. A plastic slinky hung from the top bars of the cage to provide a tunnel to play in is also a big favorite for smaller birds.
A variety of perches (material and diameter) should be supplied. The various sizes helps to exercise the feet. Also, a cement perch helps to trim the nails; however, be careful not to have too many cement perches so the bird's feet do not get scratched and sore.
Birds require between 10-12 hours sleep every night. Provide cover over the cage at night for security and warmth. Insufficient sleep will cause a cranky bird and could lead to health issues. A bed sheet works quite nicely.
Open seed and water dishes are recommended since some birds may not approach a hooded dish and could starve. A crock is also used to offer meals in addition to seed on a daily basis. Birds naturally look for food at the bottom of their cage so be attentive to determine that the young bird is eating and drinking for it only takes 24-48 hours for them to starve to death.
Toys are very important to the bird for mental stimulation as well as physical activity. When a bird is caged for periods of time, it is critical that they have plenty to keep them occupied. Ensure to purchase toys appropriate for the breed and rotate them often, providing a new toy to the mix on a regular basis.
Proper cleaning is critical to ensure your bird's health. Weekly cleanings are best with a cage soak of 1-2 capful bleach to a gallon of hot water with a hot water rinse. Dry thoroughly.
YOUR BIRD'S PREFERRED ENVIRONMENT:
Choose the home location for your bird's caged area with due care and consideration. For most birds, normal temperatures, as routinely regulated in your home's living rooms, are probably just about right for your bird, say between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Under "artificial dry heat" conditions you may need to likewise artificially-raise the humidity level somewhat. Some natural sunlight (uv) exposure can be beneficial for your pet bird, but this should be occasional and limited to short periods of time - also, you may wish to introduce some degree of sun-replacement artificial lighting to brighten your bird's living space. Always make sure that your bird is not exposed to draughts! Although "water misting" your bird and allowing the bird to take baths at will is recommended, always on such occasions make sure the bird is able to dry-off quickly at a warm temperature and without exposure to draughts. Place a beach-towel or blanket over the bird at night when the other household members retire to bed!
PLAY AND EXERCISE:
Apart from good clean perches, including multi-shaped wooden perches that your bird can make use of for resting, roosting and gnawing purposes, you need to provide your caged pet bird with other items of interest. Stressful conditions are undesirable for any caged bird, and boredom in captivity can lead not only to stress, but also to other adverse reactions or behaviour in your pet bird, such as feather plucking and other stress-related ailments. So, why not seek out the playthings, swings, plastic hollow balls, etc. that your bird safely enjoys and in which he or she displays the most interest, including various other multi-colored and (zinc-free!) shiny items placed around the inside of the cage. A wide selection of such items can be found at all the bird fairs across Ohio and elsewhere, mostly at good prices and in such wide variety as to satisfy any bird, of any age or species, and at any energy level. Vitaminized and/or mineralized chewing blocks are also a good addition for any pet bird's caged environment.
Get your pet-bird out of the cage as often as possible and handle him or her for as long as your time schedule permits - start with "step-ups", "finger training", etc. and give that guy as much personal attention as possible, talking freely with your pet at close quarters - and soon that bird will be talking back to you! This will almost-certainly happen before too long if your bird is a Quaker, Senegal Parrot or a Congo African Grey, etc! Also, be aware that your bird may be able to escape your direct attention at certain times - so watch out for potential "disaster areas" in your home, such as ceiling fans, animals (and small children!), sticky hanging fly-papers, hot surfaces, cooking pots, toxic houseplants, chemicals, sources of poisonous zinc, etc. It is always a good idea to periodically clip (or have clipped) the outer six primary feathers (back to the secondary feathers) of your bird's wing-feathers to avoid the possibility of upwards flight!
DIET MATTERS:
Complete cleanliness of all feed and water pots is of the utmost importance, with regular feed and drinking water changes - for drinking water changes should be at least once or twice every day - and this should represent one of your main and ongoing commitments towards your pet bird. Re dietary aspects, and recognizing the associated $ costs involved(!), of equal, if not greater, importance is what you do not regularly feed to your bird, as compared to what you do decide to offer your bird in the way of water and general nourishment!! Provided you offer your bird good clean water, regularly changed, and a good-quality balanced staple diet, there is very little need to bother too much about some of the more esoteric and sophisticated "feed additives", at least in this writer's considered opinion!
Of course, as for all types of household pets, there are many proprietary feed items available to satisfy in full or to complement and enhance your pet bird's regular diet, ranging from a very wide variety of vitamin-fortified seed mixtures, through to a similarly-wide variety of formulated and pelletized foods. Of course, all we bird lovers have our personal preferences regarding the best feed mixtures for our birds, whether it be seeds, multi-colored pellets, other formulated products, or some combination of all the above, suitably supplemented with miscellaneous approved and recommended additives. Certain vegetables (lettuce, celery, carrot, etc.), fruit (apples, sweet grapes, etc.), millet spray and cuttle-fish bone as extras would also be the choice of many people. Our best advice is probably to discuss the dietary needs of your particular bird or birds with a wide variety of bird owners and feed providers, consider carefully all their advice and recommendations, but after all this just make up your own mind and work with your own bird at home to decide together "the best way forward nutritionally" that properly meets the needs of both of you!
GOOD HYGIENE IS ESSENTIAL:
As already noted, clean, hygienic living quarters and conditions for your bird are obviously of utmost importance to ensure the general health and well-being of your birds - and all of this is your own personal responsibility, of course! Generally, regular "soap and water" can be used effectively to clean perches and cages, although from time to time a thorough washing of all such items with a chlorinated / "anti-bacterial and anti-pest" bleach solution, albeit followed by a thorough clean-water rinsing, should be applied. Of course, avoid any form of exposure of your pet bird to chlorinated cleaning fluids, kitchen fumes, etc. or indeed the smoke from cigarettes, cigars or pipe-use in your home!
WATCH OUT FOR SIGNS OF DISTRESS:
Keep a close observation of your pet bird at all times! A bird that looks generally sick in appearance and unhappy probably is moving into an unhealthy condition, if not there already. Usually, important tell-tale signals would include loss of appetite, sitting with little motion on the bottom of the cage, puffed-up feathers, breathing difficulties, closed or semi-closed eyes, etc. - all this represents behaviour that would suggest that your bird has some kind of health problems. Keeping the bird at an even temperature of 80 degrees or so in a confined area for a few hours might prove helpful, but the best advice is probably to soon speak to your veterinarian to get a more thorough and professional diagnosis of your bird's unfortunate condition. Other more pronounced disturbing behaviour and observations would almost certainly require the involvement of your local avian veterinarian, so keep his/her details, telephone number, etc. handy and prominently-placed well in advance of any signs of possible emergency attention for your bird actually being required.
ive or proves difficult to catch or handle, negotiate a lower $ price with the seller - or move on!
LONG LIFE-SPAN:
Whenever you decide to purchase a new pet bird, whether it be a Cockatiel or a Congo African Grey Parrot, or one of the many other species readily available, always remember that not only are you probably making a significant long-term $ investment, but you are also going to bring a new family member into your home with a life expectancy that may well exceed your own! Your new pet bird could well be around your home for anything from another five to perhaps fifty-five years! For example, most Conures would be expected to enjoy a life-span of some 15 to 35 years! Your personal commitment to the bird should emphasize, of course, the above "enjoyment" aspect - for the both of you! Put yourself in the position of the bird in his or her new home circumstances, and simply ask yourself whether the conditions you are providing for your new family member are those YOU would be happy to accept and endure if your positions and circumstances were reversed! Aim to keep the bird's overall conditions close to these, and you will be abundantly rewarded over future years as you and the bird become totally bonded to one another, enjoying life's experiences together!
DNA SEXING OF YOUR BIRD:
Here at Forest Park Aviaries, it is often very important to us to determine and/or confirm the sexes of our pet birds. There may also be occasions, albeit rarely, when situations come to light here where one of our "proven pairs" purchased elsewhere in the past, even when sitting on their own eggs!, turns out to be a couple of females, or males as the case may be! To resolve such situations, our preferred approach is to have our birds DNA feather-sexed by one of the reputable professional companies that specialize in such matters, such as Avian Biotech International in Florida. Likewise, some of our customers feel they need to know the sexes of their new and previously-unsexed pet birds, perhaps on the grounds (sometimes perhaps misguided!) of the male (or female, as the case may be!) of that particular species reputedly having greater potential as a "talker" or "being more easily socializable" than the corresponding bird of the opposite sex, or where the customer may intend to convert the bird to "breeding duties" at some later time. In such cases, if our customer seeks to make arrangements with us to get such DNA sexing carried out on any type of bird, usually this can be done within just a few days after purchase.
YOUR COMMENTS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME:
Whilst we have made our best efforts to ensure that this General Home Care of Your Bird section of our web-site contains accurate information, we understand that there will be many differences of opinion amongst our customers, other bird-lovers, and other readers of this material. Accordingly, please be so kind as to let us know in some way, perhaps via our "Contact Us" page or at one of the bird fairs, etc., if you have any suggestions for improvement, correction, or expansion of this section towards the general and greater benfit of those out there seeking such assistance.
We continue to much appreciate your interest, involvement and encouragement!
Dr.Geoff, Dixie & Debra (C.A.S)
POTENTIAL HAZARDS IN THE HOME ENVIRONMENT:
Along with the foods that must be avoided with all birds, there are also many household items that pose significant danger to our feathered friends. Please note & take extreme caution at all times. (NOTE: This is not a complete list, research the internet and various books for additional guidance.)
Avoid using around birds – remember their tiny respiratory systems -
·Scented candles and sprays
·Plug-in air fresheners
·Teflon pans (odorless/colorless fumes – can be fatal within minutes if overheated)
·Smokers – birds should not be anywhere near smoking
·Also, smokers should wash their hands before handling
·Fumes from cooking sprays or greasy cooking
·Ceiling fans
·Paper towel rolls (source of zinc which must be avoided)
·Toothbrushes – has metal in the bristle – could be fatal
·Galvanized metal – toxic levels of lead and/or zinc (using a magnet…if it clings to something in the cage or the cage itself, remove the item and consider a stainless steel cage.
·Stovetops
·Household cleaners (bleach, etc)
·Moth balls
·Paint fumes, paint thinner or remover
·Floor cleaners, polish, waxes
·Plants – reference the internet for poisonous plants for birds…there are too many to list. You can find a listing of safe plants to have around the bird(s).
·New carpeting – move the birds to a safe area until the carpet is shampooed, and vacuumed several times.
·Space heaters – if coated in Teflon should not be used near birds
·Scented toilet paper or tissues
·Fumes from hot glue guns
This list only covers a small portion of cautions. Please continually research…when in doubt, check first for the safety of your bird.
JUST A FEW MORE THOUGHTS! :
If new to birds or a specific breed, this booklet should provide some basic guidelines and helpful hints as you get accustomed to your bird. Please note that this is just a basic guide – please research your specific bird.
To help determine if a bird is a good fit:
·Are you ready for the long-term commitment
·Will you provide appropriate space for the bird
·Are you aware of the noise level of a specific bird
·Understand feeding requirements for the breed, including fresh seed (if appropriate) & fresh (preferably filtered) water daily.
·Daily, supervised time out of cage is needed & important
·Avian certified vet secured for annual well care check-up and any required medical attention.
·Allergies? Research those with least amount of powder down
·Never take outside unless properly secured with flight leash
The internet is a wonderful resource for learning about the overall care of birds along with on-line forums for breed specific.
Basic Tips for small-medium hookbills:
·They love their human flock! Enjoy having their owners preen their head feathers and offer head scratches.
·Spend time out of cage daily to keep them socialized.
·Provide a variety of food offerings
·Toys, toys, toys - need plenty to keep them entertained – very curious and playful birds! Ensure they are breed-specific. The bird's head should not fit through any part of the toy.
·Popular cage items include: swing, slinky, cozy hut, hanging wood toys with bells, rope toys. Research by breed.
·Cage size is important – if your bird needs to spend considerable time in their cage, please make it large enough for activity. Refer to specific bird pages in this booklet for cage recommendations by breed. Important to have the cage set up prior to bringing your new bird home for easy transition. The bigger the better.
·Place a cuttlebone and a mineral block in the cage – a must!
·Secure an Avian certified vet who can provide medical attention if required, as well an annual well care check-ups.
·Consider who would care for the bird when you're away.
cooked oatmeal & brown rice (dry oats should be organic)
Almonds, Pecans
Whole grain breads (limited basis)
Pasta (wheat)
Dairy products: provide calcium and essential amino acids
Milk is not recommended, may cause diarrhea. Most types of hard cheese and yogurt can be offered in very limited quantity (ensure no chocolate is in offerings).
Vitamin E sources: Wheat germ oil, Nekton E Supplement
Beak Appetit – this is a product offered online or in bird stores which is a great mixture that you cook with water. Birds respond well to this food and supplies a nice change for the bird.
Research the internet for other suggestions for feeding. Breed-specific forums are also a great source of valuable information.
Please click here or underlined Link above to visit our Bird Breeders International web-site to find valuable links to other sites describing the distinguishing characteristics of a variety of Hookbill pet birds that you may be considering for future purchase.
